SUCCESSFUL IRIS GROWING
Iris Growing Guide
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Growing Guide
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Site Selection
Sunlight: Choose a location with full sun (at least 6 hours daily). More sun equals more blooms.
Soil: Well-draining soil is essential. Dahlias don't like wet feet. Amend heavy clay with compost, sand, or organic matter. Rich, humus soil produces the best results.
Spacing: Plant dahlias 18-24" apart to allow for air circulation and growth.
Protection: Consider a location with some protection from strong winds, especially for tall varieties.
Planting Your Dahlia Tubers
When to Plant:
- After all danger of frost has passed (same timing as tomatoes)
- Soil temperature should be warming
- In Alberta, typically late May to early June
Starting Indoors (Recommended):
- Plant tubers in small pots 4-6 weeks before outdoor planting
- Use porous potting soil mixed with compost
- Cover tubers so the "eyes" (growth tips) don't stick out and dry
- Water when planting, then once weekly or when soil looks dry
- Mist soil surface between waterings to prevent tuber rot
- Place in good light and keep slightly moist but not wet
- Transplant outside once frost danger has passed
Planting Outside:
- Dig a hole 4-6" deep
- Add compost or bone meal to the planting hole
- Lay tuber horizontally or place on its side
- Cover with 1-2" of soil initially, gradually adding more as plant grows
- When transplanting started plants, bury deeper and cover some shoots (but not leaves)
Important: Handle tubers carefully as the "eyes" (growth points) are fragile and won't grow if damaged.
Staking
Most dahlia varieties need support as they grow.
When to Stake:
Install stakes at planting time or use tomato cages to avoid damaging roots later.
How to Stake:
Use sturdy stakes or supports and tie plants with soft twine as they grow. For multiple plants, consider using t-posts with horizontal support lines.
Watering
Young Plants:
Don't overwater to prevent rot. Water sparingly until established.
Established Plants:
- Water deeply when rainfall is less than 1" per week
- During hot, dry periods, water every 2 days if possible
- Water at soil level, not on foliage
- Plants need consistent moisture for best bloom production
Feeding
At Planting:
Mix compost or bone meal into soil.
During Growing Season:
- Use a balanced fertilizer or one lower in nitrogen
- Too much nitrogen produces leaves but fewer flowers
- Apply fertilizer according to package directions
- Side-dress with compost mid-season for continued blooms
Ongoing Care
Deadheading: Remove spent blooms regularly to encourage more flowers.
Pinching: For bushier plants with more blooms, pinch the main stem when plants are 12-18" tall (optional).
Pest Management: Watch for aphids, earwigs, and slugs. Handpick or use organic controls as needed.
Disease Prevention: Ensure good air circulation and avoid overhead watering to prevent powdery mildew.
After Blooming
Option 1 - Treat as Annual:
Allow frost to kill plants and compost the tubers.
Option 2 - Store for Next Year:
- After first frost blackens foliage, cut stems to 6"
- Carefully dig tubers with a garden fork
- Brush off excess soil (don't wash)
- Dry tubers for a few days in a protected area
- Store in boxes with peat moss, vermiculite, or sawdust
- Keep in a cool (40-50°F), dark location
- Check periodically and mist lightly if shrivelling
Troubleshooting
No blooms?
May need more sun, less nitrogen fertilizer, or time to establish.
Yellowing leaves?
Could indicate overwatering, poor drainage, or disease.
Stunted growth?
Check for pests, improve soil drainage, or add nutrients.
Tubers rotting?
Too much water or poor drainage. Ensure soil dries between waterings.